A gentle breeze flows through the open dining room, cooling down what would have otherwise been a hot summer night. Candle-lit lanterns hang from the ceiling, bathing the wooden décor in a soft, warm light. The subtle clinking of cutlery and hushed conversation is all that can be heard in a room full of couples, young and old, who gaze lovingly at each other. The setting is impossibly romantic.
Although I would have preferred to be here with a loved one, I sit across from St. Lucia native and Top Chef star, Chef Nina Compton, who makes an excellent dinner date. She entertains me with stories from her experience on the show, and has me gushing with excitement about the meal that I’m about to have. That is until our food arrives.
I begin my dinner with St. Lucian crab backs – fresh crab meat sautéed with local seasoning and herbs, smothered with a rich garlic butter sauce and served inside hollowed crab shells. The seasoning is simple, but the crabmeat is so fresh and flavourful it hardly needs anything at all.
We eat in absolute silence, not out of respect for any cultural norms, but because the food is so good we forget everything else.
Next, I devour a plate full of jumbo shrimps on a bed of vegetables and rice, blanketed in a spicy creole sauce. The crispness of the shrimp bursts in my mouth with each bite, and the creole sauce coats my tongue in flavour so rich it lasts long after I finish my meal. I dare not spoil it with even one bite of dessert.
Some of the best examples of St. Lucian Creole cuisine – a distinctive blend of West Indian, African and French influence – can be found in the island’s capital city of Castries. The waterfront location of the Coal Pot Restaurant combined with the expert work of award-winning French Chef Xavier has made it a popular choice for foodies since 1966. It’s a perfect place for an elegant sit down meal and a great introduction to the many foodie experiences one can have in Castries.
Friday night street party
Swap your fitted cocktail dress for a colourful (and roomy!) maxi and you’re ready to hit the Gros Islet Quarter just north of Castries. I was lucky to be here on a Friday night when the area is host to the spunkiest street party on the island. Loudspeakers belt out calypso, zouk, reggae and R&B for a sea of swaying locals and tourists, as street vendors serve up steamed fish, barbequed chicken, whelks and crab served with a side of St. Lucia’s own Piton beer.
Saturday mornin’ food shoppin’
Walking through the Castries Market is like entering a colourful explosion of fresh fruit, vegetables, spices and handmade crafts especially on a Saturday morning when things are at their liveliest. I found it hard to stay focused among the endless piles of mangoes, custard apple, soursop, coconuts and bananas. Luckily, Chef Nina Compton was there as our guide. We meandered through the countless vendor stalls, tasting street foods like accra, a spicy codfish fritter, and picking up spices like star anise, and cinnamon, condiments like a special local hot-pepper sauce, and souvenir cocoa sticks to bring home. The market is open every day except Sunday.
Less cooking, more liming
If a cooking class is too much work on a vacation, then a cooking lime may just be your cup of St. Lucian cocoa tea. To “lime” means to “chill” or “relax”, and the cooking lime at the Spices Cooking studio is all about laid back fun. Over the course of three hours we were the subject of Chef Jenni Killam’s jokes who teased us as we laughed and chatted while preparing two authentic St. Lucian dishes – a curried fish stew and a spicy chocolate flan for dessert. The fruit of our labour was enjoyed on a patio overlooking a lush view of the property’s garden that gently slopes into a valley. The best part? No prep work or cleanup!
5 foods to try in St. Lucia
Green Bananas and Salt Fish
The “official” dish of St. Lucia is just as it sounds – salty cod fish and vegetables served with a side of bananas, the island’s leading export.
Crab backs
Local crab meat sautéed with local seasoning and herbs and Garlic Butter Sauce, served inside hollowed crab shells.
Accra
A street food favourite! Deep fried salt fish battered with a spicy seasoning.
Cassava bread
Made from a starchy root vegetable, this unleavened bread can be eaten like a sandwich with fish or combined with coconut, cherries, raisins and apple for a sweeter treat.
Tropical fruits
Mangoes, soursop, pineapple, coconut, pomme d’armour, five finger, chenet, bananas, kiwi and more!
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