It was so quiet that the sound of the metal door being unlocked echoed through the room like an unexpected rumble of thunder. The rusted hinges creaked like a slow, frightened squeal cut short by overwhelming fear. Our feet shuffle softly against the bare floor as we slowly made our way through the narrow halls.
We were following our tour guide through the deserted rooms of Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin’s infamous 18th century prison.
Her voice echoed against the cold stone walls as she told us haunting stories of those who had been imprisoned and executed here. Leaders of the rebellions of 1798, 1803, 1848, 1867 and 1916 were all detained at Kilmainham Gaol. Outside in the courtyard, a cross marked the spot where several of them were executed.
Throughout the tour everyone was silent, and I couldn’t tell whether the chill running down my spine was because of the temperature or the eerie atmosphere.
The stillness in the building, the stark rooms and empty prison cells made it seem like no one ever inhabited this place, but the names carved by prisoners into door frames were a sudden reminder that many spent years of their life here in cold, dark solitude.
A tour of the Kilmainham Gaol is a riveting glimpse into the profound history of Dublin, a city that’s steeped in history.
From the delicate beauty of the calligraphic art of the Columbanus times, the dark tales of the Irish Rebellion, to the magnificent architecture and gastronomy that is present today, Dublin is a compact city full of experiences that will send you travelling through time.
Art and literature
Twelve hundred years ago, a group of monks in a Columbanus monastery created what is considered today to be Ireland’s finest national treasure. The Book of Kells is a handcrafted masterpiece of Western calligraphy featuring four Gospels of the New Testament. Handwritten calligraphy is brought to life with rich gold leafing and illustrations of Christian symbols, human figures, animals, mythical creatures, swirling motifs, Celtic knots and interlacing patterns in vibrant ink colours. The ornamentation of the Book of Kells is considered to be the most beautiful and complex than any other Gospel books from the era and is open to public visits at the Old Library in Trinity College.
Marble sculptures of 14 of the greatest philosophers and writers of the western world – Plato, Shakespeare, Socrates among others – greet visitors entering the 18th century Long Room of the Old Library in Trinity College. Two floors of cherry wooded bookshelves containing 200,000 of the library’s oldest books rise to meet the beautifully barrel-vaulted ceiling of the room. It is an impressive sight for tourists who gather in the room, admiring the simple beauty of row upon row of leather-bound books.
Because of its popularity, it is sometimes difficult to have a quiet moment in the Long Room to appreciate its serene splendor. So, for a more peaceful experience make your way to Marsh’s library. Tucked into a quaint nook of a tiny street, Marsh’s library is a beautifully preserved collection of books dating back to the late Renaissance and early Enlightenment periods. It was the first public library in Ireland when it opened in 1707. The building still boasts all the original furnishings like the carved and lettered Irish oak shelves, seating, and three furnished reading alcoves. The collection of over 25,000 books and 300 manuscripts from the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries as well as 80 books from before 1501 covering a variety of topics primarily in English but also in Hebrew, Arabic, Turkish, Russian and Latin. Scholars and students can access the collection by appointment, and tourists are welcomed during visiting hours to experience the tranquil ambience and to view the book of the day on display.
Glorious architecture
Among the endless array of historic buildings that line the streets of Dublin, the city is blessed to be home to two great cathedrals. The elder of the two is Christ Church Cathedral, which was founded in 1030 and built upon for several centuries since. The numerous additions and restorations have given the Christ Church Cathedral an eclectic feel as parts of the building have been built in different architectural genres from the highly elaborate gothic style to the proportional and geometric flavour of renaissance. One of the highlights of the building is its crypt, which is the largest in all of Ireland. The crypt is full of many fascinating items including two statues which are the oldest known secular carvings in Ireland, a stockade which was once used to punish offenders in Christ Church Place, a plethora of historic books and altar goods, and – perhaps most fascinating of all – mummified remains of a cat “chasing” a rat that were said to be found in the church’s organ pipes.
The newer Saint Patrick’s Cathedral was founded in 1191 and is the largest church in Ireland. Built in an early English gothic style, the building has a handsome feel with thick walls and heavy buttressing. The organ inside the cathedral is one of the largest in Ireland featuring over 4,000 pipes. According to legend, Saint Patrick cut a hole in a door and thrust his arm inside in an effort to call a truce during a dispute, coining the expression “chancing your arm”. The hole in the door can still be seen in the building.
Grab a bite
Once all that walking makes you hungry, pop into the Bewley’s Oriental Café for a quick bite and a sip of tea. The business began in 1835 when Charles Bewley brought into Dublin 2,000 chests of tea from China, breaking the monopoly of the East India Tea Company. The risky move was a success and the Bewley’s brand quickly spread across Dublin and ultimately across Ireland. The Bewley’s café on Grafton Street became a gathering place for artists and literati like James Joyce and Samuel Beckett. Today this historical spot remains Ireland’s longest established café attracting over a million visitors every year. Patrons come here to admire the high ceilings, chandeliers, and artwork including the set of six stained glass windows created by the Irish artist, Harry Clarke. On the menu you can find freshly baked goods, soups and sandwiches, hand roasted coffee and, of course, the finest cup of tea in the city. Sláinte!
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