Paris is most romantic, and Berlin is steeped in history. Vienna is a place for culture buffs, and Florence a place for foodies. Nearly every major European city has a unique offering for a different kind of traveller. But if there is one city that has it all, it’s Zurich.
Old European charm
I don’t feel like I’m in Europe unless I’ve tripped at least twice on an uneven cobblestoned road. There’s just something that’s so darn charming about the organic look and feel of the raised stones that pave the streets of old towns in Europe – even though they hurt your feet and sometimes ruin your shoes.
You’ll feel like you’ve been placed inside a medieval romance as you stroll through the winding narrow streets of Zurich’s old town, popping in and out of cheese shops and cafes, and taking in the beautiful historic architecture.
Although it is prettiest when lit up at night, a visit to Zurich’s iconic Grossmünster church during the day will allow you to not only appreciate the beautiful Romanesque design of the 12th century building, but also a spectacular view of the city from the church tower. According to legend, this church is built on the same site where the graves of Zurich’s patron saints, Felix and Regula, were found.
A quick walk across the Münsterbrücke bridge will bring you to the Fraumünster, a spectacular Romanesque church dating back to 853. Look up to admire the beautiful ribbing in the high vault and definitely don’t leave until your eyes have soaked every last inch of the bold, colourful stained glass windows by Russian-French artist, Marc Chagall.
Also worth a look is the nearby St. Peter’s Church. The structure features an ornate Baroque style carved vault and a giant, eye-catching clock face, which is the largest in Europe.
Be sure to tour through one of the several magnificent guild houses that dot the old town for a glimpse into the history of trade unions – or Zünfte – in Zurich. Dating back to the 14th century, these grand buildings are where influential people from various industries gathered to set out guidelines to manage best practice in their trades. Today, the decorative grand halls at these buildings are used to host special events. Some of the guild houses have been turned into hotels, like the Hotel Widder and Hotel Savoy. Others, like the majestic Rococo palace Zunft zur Meisen and the Zunft zur Letzi, have been transformed into museums. You can also pop into the Storchen Zurich or Haus zum Rüden for a zünftige Mahlzeit – a Swiss German expression meaning a lavish feast that literally translates as “a guild-like meal.”
Modern vibe and nightlife
Once you’ve finished exploring the old town, hop into a time machine and fast forward to present day in Zurich West, a place where art, fashion, design and entertainment collide into a beautiful rainbow of creativity.
When you first arrive in Zurich West, it feels a bit like someone played a cruel joke on you. At first glance, this neighbourhood appears drab and dirty (well, “dirty” according to Swiss standards!), but don’t be too quick to judge. This area is sprinkled with public art installments (like colourful graffiti and sculptures), and hidden inside the old, dreary industrial buildings is an endless line-up of the trendiest spots in the city.
The coolest of them all is the Schiffbau. From the outside, it still looks like an old shipbuilding facility – which is what it used to be – but one step through the door proves otherwise. Upon entering, you are forced to walk around a barricade of bright yellow metal strings that run from the floor all the way up to the ceiling, an immediate signal to let you know that things are about to get very creative in here. Schiffbau is a cultural centre where the city’s most creative minds gather to make art. On a regular basis you can come here to catch live theatre, poetry slams, live music (jazz, blues and hip hop) and a spectacular meal at La Salle restaurant.
Just a few steps away, Puls 5 is a place to see the residents of Zurich West go about their daily business. Described as “the beating heart” of Zurich West, you can come here to browse through the shops, grab a bite, and watch the locals flow in and out of the fitness and wellness centre. Need some fresh air? Head over to the Turbinenplatz, an outdoor sitting area with funky stone benches that looks fairly ordinary during the day, but comes alive at night with a vibrant display of coloured lights.
Time for a bit of shopping? You’re in the best neighbourhood for stylish and unique finds.
Just down the street from Puls 5, a tall stack of rusty freight containers is the site of the flagship store of the famous Swiss brand, Freitag. Make your way through five floors of one-of-a-kind bags and accessories made from up-cycled tarps, then climb to the very top of the structure for a great view of Zurich West.
Right next door, both Bogen 33 and Walter are vintage furniture stores that sell unique and funky decor pieces dating back to the 1950s.
You’ll find tons more if you walk just a bit further up the street to the Viadukt, one of the coolest modern adaptation of space I have ever seen. While a train line still runs along its tracks, the hollows under the stone arches of the West Zurich’s railway viaduct – originally built in 1894 – have been transformed into an urban space lined with shops, fashion boutiques, art galleries and market hall full of farmers and food vendors.
In the evening, the neighbourhood comes alive with the city’s most vibrant techno clubs. Check out live music nearly every night at Exil, the grungy atmosphere at Helsinki and a passion for all things electro at Blok.
Discovering all the hidden gems inside the ever-evolving Zurich West is a bit of a beast, which is why I would recommend signing yourself up for a walking tour.
Culture: Art, history and food
Creativity and out-of-box thinking thrives in Zurich, which is why it isn’t much surprise that the city was the birthplace of the avant-garde art movement of Dada. It began in 1916 as a negative reaction to World War I. Artists rejected the concepts of reason and logic, and embraced a feeling of irrationality and nonsense to create art in various mediums. They gathered at the Cabaret Voltaire, a nightclub where all artists and performers were welcome to share their work in an environment that celebrated this anarchic art movement. Cabaret Voltaire still exists today in the same building where it began. You can catch regular events in the evenings or pop in for a coffee and a snack during the day. And if you’re still craving more Dada, book a stay at the Hotel Limmatblick where all of the rooms are individually decorated in Dada style.
Art lovers will also benefit from a morning spent at the Kunsthaus Zürich, the fine arts museum housing Switzerland’s most important collection of modern art. Come here to take in significant works from Edvard Munch, Van Gogh, Picasso, Claude Monet and Marc Chagall. There’s also a sizeable collection of colourful pop-art works.
Also worth a look is the Rietberg Museum, which features a collection of historical art and artifacts from Asia, Africa, America and Oceania. The collection is fascinating and the building it is housed in is equally impressive. Set inside one of Zurich’s prettiest parks, the Rieterpark, the museum consists of several historical buildings as well as a modern new glass extension referred to as the “Emerald”.
Of course, if you’re in Switzerland your visit can’t be complete without two key food experiences – Swiss chocolate and a cheese fondue.
Get the finest chocolate in the land at Sprüngli where dairy ingredients from Swiss farms come together with the finest cacao beans from across the world to create only the most fresh and delicious pralines, truffles, macaroons and solid bars of chocolate. Warning: It is completely possible to get much too excited inside a Sprüngli boutique!
Although you can get a fondue nearly everywhere in the city, the most fun experience can be had in the back of a Tuk Tuk. Book a Fondue-eTukTuk tour to enjoy a Swiss cheese fondue from the back of a Tuk Tuk while taking in a city tour.
Nature and the outdoors
You can see the mountains in the distance right from downtown Zurich, and getting to the closest peak will only take you 15 minutes by train. If you already have a transit pass, hop on a train from Zurich Main Station and within minutes you’ll arrive at the Uetliberg Station, a ten-minute walk from the summit of the mountain Uetliberg.
Uetliberg stands 870 metres above sea level, providing panoramic views of the city of Zurich and its surrounded villages, Lake Zurich and the Alps in the distance. Several well marked hiking trails and mountain bike routes makes Uetliberg popular in the summer. You can even climb right up to the top of Uetliberg, which takes about an hour to complete. And if all that hiking made you hungry, the Uto Kulm restaurant is a great place to enjoy a traditional Swiss meal while you take in the breathtaking view.
If you prefer to take in nature at water level, a boat tour on Lake Zurich is perfect. You can choose from trips that last anywhere from 1.5 hours to 7 hours. You can take in views of pretty little towns and villages as you cruise along the perimeter of the lake, with the snow-capped Alps forming a dramatic backdrop in the distance.
Prefer to circle the lake on foot? Go for a stroll on the east side of the lake to enjoy a nice scenery comprising of trees, flowerbeds and even a beautiful Classical Chinese Garden.
Spa and relaxation
Lastly, what is a good vacation without a little rest and relaxation?
Make a point to spend some time at the Thermalbad & Spa. Located deep underground inside the stone walls of an old brewery, the rustic interior of this spa will make you feel as though you have entered an ancient Roman bath. Thermal waters fill up giant wooden vats that look like old barrels, and hundred-year-old stone vaulted ceilings create an air of mystique. You can soak away your aches and pains in the therapeutic tubs featuring massage jets, bubble seats, and whirlpools, or relax in the emerald bath or a meditation pool with underwater music. At the other end of the spa, the Irish-Roman spa ritual will allow your entire body to be warmed, cleansed, relaxed and then cooled once again through a series of ten consecutive stations. Need a bit of fresh air? Head to the rooftop hot tub to enjoy panoramic views of Zurich while you soak. Booking any of the spa’s massage treatments or body wraps gets you full day access to the spa’s thermal baths and Irish-Roman ritual.
And if you book an overnight stay at the attached B2 Boutique Hotel, you’ll get all-day access to the spa for a huge discount.
Although the 130-year-old exterior of the B2 Boutique Hotel exudes historic and industrial charm, the interior of the hotel is ultra-modern and ultra-luxe. Even the smallest rooms in the hotel are large and spacious with high ceilings. Tall windows let in lots of natural light and sheer curtains add an airy feel to the rooms. All furniture is sleek and modern and follows a warm, earthy colour palette. The open bathroom has a glass-encased shower allowing you to take in the gorgeous hilltop view of Zurich as warm, rain like water massages your back and shoulders.
Beer bottle chandeliers, tall arched windows, eleven-metre high ceilings and 33,000 books decorate the stunning library lounge where a complimentary breakfast consisting of regional food is served every morning. Itching for a good new read? Feel free to borrow any of the books for the duration of your stay.
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