Jack: [Grabs Rose’s hand and pulls her onto the dance floor] Come with me!
Rose: Jack! Wait, I can’t do this.
Jack: We have to get a bit closer, like this.
Rose: I don’t know this dance
Jack: Neither do I just go with it! Don’t think.
Pressed together in a tight embrace, the two lovers begin to dance. Rose squeals with nervous delight as the music and their feet pick up the pace.
The wailing of the bagpipes is joyous, melodic. Drums beat like passionate hearts. Feet pound the floor, joining in on the party. The bows of the fiddlers move like sprightly strokes of an artist’s paintbrush, creating a sound so lively it raises the spirits of every person in the room.
If it were possible to lift this memorable scene from Titanic and transplant it into a pub on Cape Breton Island, it would not seem out of place. Swap the third class passenger deck of the ill-fated ship for a gorgeous landscape full of sweeping coastal views, unbelievably delicious seafood and the diabetes-inducing sweetness of the locals, and you’ve got the right ingredients for a perfect escape. Just keep an eye on those insulin levels.
Here in Cape Breton, the joy of Celtic music is alive on stage, in pubs, in public gatherings and especially in the homes of Cape Bretoners where kitchen parties are common. It’s nearly impossible to spend even one day on this island without hearing the soulful sound of a fiddle.
Of course, the best time to experience Celtic music on Cape Breton Island is at the Celtic Colours festival – an annual October event during which the stunning explosion of Fall’s red, gold, and orange foliage coincides with an array of musical performances. For ten consecutive days, local and international musicians gather to play music into the wee hours of the morning. Late nights are a given.
Flawless church acoustics make the perfect setting for small bands playing intimate shows that offer a laid-back vibe, and larger auditoriums are a place to find choir performances, tap dances and multi-band collaborations. Perhaps the most enjoyable atmosphere can be found at public spaces like schools, culture centres and fire halls that transform into a pub where greasy food, refreshing drinks and loud, jaunty music are the focus.
It was here at a lively pub party on Cape Breton Island that I fell in love with a style of music that I never before appreciated. There are no formalities here. As the seats filled up, people parked themselves on the floor near the stage to take in the show. Booted feet pounded the floor, friends swung their arms in tempo with the tunes, couples got up to dance, and I looked around for Leonardo Di Caprio. Just kidding (sorta).
Smiling from ear to ear I learned what life on this beautiful little island is all about – the simple joys of living.
Although the Celtic Colours festival is the best time to experience Celtic music in Cape Breton Island, it isn’t the only time. Here are some of the best spots to catch a good show:
Glenorra Inn and Distillery – Inverness, Nova Scotia
Picturesque surroundings flank the onsite distillery which produces North America’s first, and Canada’s only single malt whisky – the only “scotch” made outside of Scotland. Catch a Ceilidh twice daily.
Celtic Music Interpretive Centre – Judique, Nova Scotia
Interact with the artists during a music demonstration or immerse yourself in a complete workshop. The centre strives to preserve and promote Cape Breton Island’s traditional music through education and research. Catch a Ceilidh every Sunday afternoon.
The Red Shoe Pub – Mabou, Nova Scotia
This pub is owned by Canada’s first family of Celtic music – The Rankins. Catch regularly occurring Ceilidh here throughout the summer season.
Governor’s Pub – Sydney, Nova Scotia
Family-owned and operated for two generations, this restaurant is located in the historic home of the first mayor of Sydney. Catch a weekly Celtic music session every Wednesday night.
Strathspey Place – Mabou, Nova Scotia
For a big show, this is your best bet. The 500-seat performance space is among the largest in rural Cape Breton Island. Check online for their show schedule.
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