A sinuous road hugs the side of the mountains. To your left, a densely stitched blanket of red, orange and yellow leaved trees towers above you. To the right, a 300-metre drop.
Colourful boulders frame the island’s edge. Powerful waves of the Atlantic Ocean strike against the rock, spewing mists of sea foam into the air. Dramatic vistas reach as far as the eye can see. In front of you, the gentle curve of the coastline extends deep into the distance until it meets the horizon.
We are driving the Cabot trail on Cape Breton Island, one of the most beautiful places in Canada. And since pictures can never justly showcase the true beauty of this gem, rest assured these shots only spoil part of the surprise. Here’s a quick guide to the best spots to visit along the world famous Cabot trail.
The Cabot trail
Flying into Sydney, Nova Scotia, your journey begins with a 30-minute drive towards the Seal Island Bridge. Look towards the north and you’ll see the landscape transform from a rich farming valley to the more dramatic mountains that lead up to the Cabot Trail and the Highlands of Cape Breton. The road leads up to Kelly’s mountain where you enter the Cabot Trail and find the first great look-off: a sweeping view of St Ann’s Bay. But you haven’t seen anything yet. The road continues past the Jersey Cove sandbar and into the north shore section where you’ll find several local craft shops that make a great place to stop for a little retail therapy. Check out Piper Pewter for some incredible pewter accents, Leatherworks for amazing wallets and purses, Sew Inclined for some funky hats and Glass Artisan studio and gallery for beautiful hand blown glass.
Cape Smokey
As you continue further north, the drive begins to get a little more interesting. The highway sweeps around a bend and climbs sharply uphill bringing you to this beautiful spot – Cape Smokey. Bring out that camera and get use to the feeling of breathlessness. Welcome to Cape Breton.
Ingonish beach
Just minutes away is Ingonish beach, a perfect place to wind down and relax at the end of the day. This narrow strip of beach puts you smack in the middle of two bodies of water – salt water of the Atlantic to the east and fresh water (of the aptly named Fresh Water lake) to the west.
Keltic Lodge
For a good night’s sleep, park yourself at the Keltic Lodge. Melt away stress and fatigue with one of the signature treatments from the onsite Aveda concept spa. You’ll sleep like a baby.
Middlehead trail
Start your morning with a hike along the picturesque Middlehead trail, a route atop a skinny peninsula that juts into the Atlantic ocean. Stunted trees canopy this easy-to-hike dirt path, breaking occasionally to unveil several gorgeous lookouts. Keep your eyes peeled for chipmunks and bald eagles along the way. 30 minutes of trekking will be rewarded by a spectacular view from the top of a cliff.
Lakies head
Continue driving north along the Cabot trail before stopping at Lakies head. Stunning red-hued rocks, and a view of Cape Smokey in the distance are the main draw to this tranquil spot. If you’re lucky, you may even spot a whale! Minke, fin, pilot and even humpbacks frequent this spot.
Green cove
Just down the road awaits another beautiful lookout – Green cove. The lovely pink, textured rocks are like works of art. Follow the boardwalk and climb to the top for a great view. Then, head down the road to Neil’s harbour to satisfy the lunchtime grumblings. Grab an epic seafood chowder at the Chowder house, followed by a scoop from the Lighthouse Ice Cream Parlour. Loosen that belt buckle, get back in the car and get ready for more stunning scenery.
The Aspy Fault lookout
As you continue in the northwestward direction, the Cabot trail cuts inland and the views of the Atlantic are replaced with an explosion of colourful trees on both sides. There are several great lookout points where you can stop to take in the view. The best of them all is the Aspy Fault lookout.
The Lone Shieling
Continue westward for about 15 minutes and pull into the Lone Shieling – the site of the largest old hardwood forest in the Maritimes. This pretty little trail is the perfect place for a quick stop to stretch your legs before heading into Pleasant Bay just 10 minutes further west. Grab a lobster roll at The Rusty Anchor before departing on a whale watching tour. This is a prime whale viewing spot and the outfitters here will even back that with a guarantee!
Skyline trail
Another 20-minute drive will bring you to the western entrance of Cape Breton Highlands National Park. If Cape Breton Island is the treasure trove of Eastern Canada, the Skyline trail is its rarest diamond. And like all precious possessions, the island keeps this jewel tucked away in a secret place. The entrance to the park is unassuming, and as you begin hiking the 9-km loop you’ll feel like you’re at just another National Park, somewhere in Canada. But knowing you’re headed somewhere special, your steps will quicken. Don’t walk too fast. This area is home to several moose (we saw 3 of them!), so keep your eyes peeled. Hike for about 30 minutes and you’ll end up at the look-off point. You’ll forget everything else as you step out onto the platform to take in the sweeping view from atop a headland cliff. The ocean stretches out until it meets the horizon, the sunlight dances on the water’s surface, and the island coast fades gently into the distance. Just remember to breathe.
Acadian coast
Once you manage to tear yourself away from the Skyline trail, get back into the car and drive south along the Acadian coast portion of the Cabot trail. La Bloc beach is a great place to take a quick dip in the ocean, before continuing your scenic drive. Another 30 minutes on the road will bring you through the charming Acadian fishing village of Cheticamp and another hour from here to Baddeck, either place offering ample options for overnight accommodation. I stayed in the village of Baddeck at the Inverary Resort. Enjoy spectacular local cuisine at the Thistledown Pub or a lobster boil experience during the summer months.
The home stretch
Although the scenery of the final stretch of the Cabot trail is more humble when compared to the northern part of the island, there still isn’t a shortage of great views. Take it all in as you make the final drive from Baddeck back into Sydney. A great place to stop for gifts is the Cape Breton Centre for Crafts and Design, where you can find local made crafts from artists all over the island. Fuel up on another spectacular seafood and locally-sourced meal at the Governors pub, and save some time for one last photo op next to the world’s biggest fiddle before heading home. Gather your memories and start planning your next trip to Cape Breton Island because I can almost guarantee that your heart will never leave.
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