The worst thing about trying really good food and drink is that it forever ruins the “regular” stuff for you.
When it comes to tea, the best stuff I’ve ever had is at the Zealong tea estate in New Zealand.
You’re probably thinking: “It’s just tea. How good could it be?” No, it’s not just tea. That cup you’re holding in your hand? That is “just tea”.
The tea I’m referring to was like an ethereal symphony of delicate flavours whirling in your mouth like graceful dervishes, spawning a perfumed breeze in a garden full of the most sweet smelling flowers.
And no, I wasn’t high when I tried it.
I first visited the Zealong tea estate, a bit reluctantly, during a 10-day sprint of a trip across New Zealand in my Travel Editor days. Since I only had 10 days in the country, I wanted to cover as many of the highlights directly relating to my piece for the magazine. But the tourism board insisted I make a stop at Zealong, so I agreed to a quick visit.
The day was clear, the weather was perfect, and as I drove up the driveway the views of the property and the plantation were lovely. Still, I had zero expectations.
I was greeted at the door by an extremely polite and humble pair: the marketing manager, and the resident tea sommelier. “Modest” doesn’t begin to describe these two. Usually when you meet a marketing manager, they make you feel like you’re about to experience the best thing that will ever happen in your life. These guys showed me in like you politely direct someone to the public bathroom.
Maybe that was part of the strategy (or maybe they were just being their very polite Kiwi selves), because in that moment I had no idea that my mind was about to be blown.
We sat on little tree stumps, around a gorgeous wooden table to do the tea ceremony. The sommelier began to describe the flavour profile of the 5 teas produced by Zealong and how they are made. Then, like a careful art, she began to prepare the tea. It was a multi-step process of measuring the tealeaves and water, “waking” up the tealeaves with an initial washing, heating the serving cups, and finally steeping the tea for an exact time.
She began to pour tea into our tiny tasting cups. It was a beautiful amber-hued liquid, perfectly clear with no floating bits or colouration. Then, I took my first sip.
As soon as I tasted the tea, my eyes flew open in a grand mixture of amazement and delight. I set my cup down and exclaimed: “Ohh my God!”
Both Kiwis flashed big smiles, and nodded.
“This is soooo good!” I continued.
More smiles.
I wanted to gulp the rest of the tea, but it was too good to drink fast. I savoured it with slow, repetitive sips.
“I don’t understand. How is this tea so good??” I demanded.
The tea sommelier went on to explain that all Zealong teas come from a single source: the Zealong plantation. This ensures a fresh and consistent flavour.
Once I finished my first cup of tea, she asked me to smell the empty cup. I gave her a puzzled look thinking her request was strange, but did it anyway.
Cue the next round of shocked exclamations.
When I say that the empty cup had the aroma of the fine fragrance, I am not speaking in metaphor or hyperbole. The remaining drops of tea that traced the empty cup actually smelled like something you’d pay a hundred dollars for at a department store. It was astounding!
“Wow!” I exclaimed repeatedly as I sniffed my empty cup of tea, silently debating whether it would be completely ridiculous to rub some tea on my wrists.
The sommelier explained that Zealong teas are meticulously produced from start to finish using the highest quality standards, by a team of highly experienced crafts people. This painstakingly detailed process ensures only the best tea gets produced at Zealong which always has a vibrant flavour and floral aroma.
We continued the tasting the different teas, and the sommelier commented on how the different processes affect the flavour profile and fragrance of each tea. My amazement did not falter.
The tea tasting was followed by a signature high tea experience where I sampled sweet and savoury tea-infused delights piled high on a tiered serving dish.
The history behind the plantation was fascinating too.
The idea first sparked when owner, Vincent Chen and his father noticed how well Camellia trees grow in the Waikato region of New Zealand. Given the similarities of the Camellia and tea plants, the two were convinced that the area would be a perfect place to grow tea. They travelled to the best tea growing regions in Asia to source 1,500 cuttings, which they brought back to New Zealand. After going through New Zealand’s strict quarantine process, only 130 plants survived. The Chens used their wealth of knowledge to propagate these plants, growing them to the highest certified organic standards in New Zealand’s pure, clean, and fertile environment. The result? 40 hectares of tree plants that produce the world’s purest tea.
So good, I had to go back
Two years later when I returned to New Zealand for a longer stay, I found myself at Zealong again, this time with a group of friends. I had been talking their ear off about how amazing the tea is and, even with the bar set so high, Zealong did not disappoint.
We sat together around the same beautiful wooden table to do the same tea tasting I had done two years previously. Unsurprisingly, their reaction to the whole experience was very similar to mine.
As I sit here in Toronto sipping my mediocre cup of oolong tea, I can’t help wish I was back in New Zealand sipping the divine version of what’s in my cup right now.
Luckily, I can order some fresh Zealong tea online. The clean, crisp air and a stunning view of the estate? You’ll have to fly down unda’ for that.
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